Table-top Module Possibilities

I just finished making a layout using my newly-created T-rail-Z modules. They are fairly simple to build. I've started a Yahoo group with pictures and detailed parts lists for these modules.

groups.yahoo.com/group/T-rail-Z/

Here are some pictures to whet your appetite.






Enjoy and feel free to join the Yahoo group
Thom Welsch

This looks great, Thom. In so many words: count me in! (Yahoo group membership requested, of course.)

MKS

Is this to be the EZ version of doing ZTrack modules -- less overhead/logistics?

Would 2x4 section be Ok too?

This isn't meant to replace any existing standard...it's just my version of a table-top module.

The only way a 2x4 section would be OK is if it uses Rokuhan track, the track interfaces are in the right place and it will fit into the planned group of modules. It would not fit in either of the layouts pictured above since there wouldn't be an additional foot between modules and/or the modules on the opposite side would be approximately 4 inches longer total.

As usual, I'm late to this discussion. Yahoo group membership request sent. I'm just in the planning phases of a new (first) layout, after my move to Sweden. I'm not sure if I will ever meet anyone to join a module with, but this approach would be better than anything I could ever do. Like others have mentioned, portability is a key factor here. I am also exclusively using Rokuhan track, because of its robustness and wide variety of pieces.

I can't tell from the Thom's photos, but what is keep the track pieces in place at the end of each module?

My only negative comment would be the same as Kelley's concerns... the spaces bewtween each module is a visual distractor.

One supply problem I will run into is... I cannot find any of the pink or blue foam, in any size, here in Sweden. And, yes... I've checked every possible outlet.

Count me in!

Hi Alex, (membership approved)
The photos and parts list on the Yahoo group will give you a better idea of construction. The item holding the track near the edge of the modules is Rokuhan's fixture 2-track. It's designed to space the tracks apart and supply a place to install their catenery masts. You're welcome to install the masts if you'd like...I just thought this would be a simple way of guaranteeing the same spacing between the tracks on every module. The gap (only about 1/8 inch) between the modules is necessary to allow the roadbed clips to seat completely to hold the modules together.

Maybe someone in the states can supply you with some of the pink or blue foam. Hmmm.....I wonder who could do that.....

Might cost a fortune to send pink foam direct to Sweden whole , but cut up it might be feasible. I will check the rate it is from Germany, might be cheaper.
They used to have the good btuff at OBI now they have the pink stuff with molded ridges

These are the guys making insulation up north , Norden Insulation, they even have a facebook page. In Grmany the stuff is called Styrodur. I can still find it but its whatever the ordering monkeys at the big box store decides to buy from month to month.

ThankZ, Thom. Now that I am "approved" I will take a look at what you have posted.

Okay... I know of the Rokuhan track spacers. I already have at least one package.

No... I think trying to ship foam to Sweden, even cut into blocks, would be cost prohibitive. Plus, anything coming in-bound gets hit with a 19% VAT. I'm not willing to line the pockets of the EU tax machine.

ThankZ, Kelley. Yes... I have found the moulded-ridge foam you describe, but passed on it, as the size was not going to work for a "normal" layout. I could use it for this concept. But I prefer to find something else. Now that you have provided me with some name brands, maybe I can ask the home stores.

Oops -- my bad!

Meant to ask about 1'x2'; don't know why I doubled it.

I like the "table top" idea. Most folding table are 2.5'x6'; seems to give some nice room for the modules!

+1 !

Thom... How might you include a yard or turn-outs on these modules?

Alex...There is enough room outside of the outside track for one stub or passing siding. There's plenty of room on the inside for a good sized yard. You would replace one of the 110mm straight tracks (I would suggest the middle section) with a switch and continue the yard or siding onto other modules. That would mean that some modules would have to go together to create the yard or industrial sidings but they could still be used as basic modules when not used for a yard. Rokuhan switches are power-routing from the factory so the train would only go the way the switch(s) was thrown. You could park the train on the siding and, once the switch(s) was thrown back to the main-line, the train on the siding would stay stopped. The switches would control the power to all of the sidings. I would suggest using the track fixtures to keep all of the tracks lined up between modules. You could also make the modules longer by several 110mm or 220mm sections. Just keep in mind that the layout will need to be rectangular until there are enough similar modules for the layout to wander.

OK, so we each do one -- where are we and how luckly can we get together?

Or know of other nearby that have done some.

Maybe we can locate out selves on a Google Map; like this: www.rcgroups.com/forums/usermap.php ? ?

Other question why not 12" and what are the dots 1/2" in?

Group's photos loaded here -- hope it's OK:










TIA,

Jim

We can each do as many as we want to. This would be like any other modular group. People would get together with people close to them and maybe groups from different places could all get together at a large show like the NMRA National Train Show...just like the Z-Bend Track module groups did in Cincinnatti, Ohio in 2005.

The length of roadbed for 3 pieces of 110mm track comes out to 330mm or 13 inches. If the modules were only 12 inches there would be a 1-inch gap between modules (1/2-inch on each side for each module). The modules look better with as little gap as possible between them. The modules need to be just slightly shorter than the length of roadbed to allow the roadbed joiners to lock completely.

The dots 1/2" is the way I indicate exactly where to place the "T"-nuts for the bolts. You would make a hole for the "T"-nut and bolt 1/2 inch from the outside edges of each corner. This measurement isn't critical but the bolt will work best closest to the corner without sticking out. As you can see in the picture, the bolts are just inside the corner edges.

Are the T bolts & Nuts used to lash the modules together?

The "T"-nuts and bolts are used as feet to make small adjustments to level the modules if necessary. Make sure the bolts can go all the way down to touch the "T"-nuts. The only thing "lashing" the modules together are the roadbed connectors and rail joiners. The track just snaps together like it would if you were assembling the track on your dining room table. The foam modules support and hold the track in place and allow for scenery.

Thanks for the clarification.

Was thinking that the foam's dimensional stability was good enough not to need the added levelers?

You're welcome.

The modules should be fine just the way they are but sometimes you'll find older tables that have been abused and sag a lot in the middle. I don't expect to need them often.