Sound Decoder in Hi-cube

I have just been authorized as an ESU install dealer. If interested about an install, let me know.

Ed, you are NOT authorised to do anybodies engine until you are finish my mine.

What engines?? The boxcar is all but done!!

Ed I have a question for you do you see a problem with having one truck both sets of wheels picking up the Pos + side and the other truck both sets of wheels picking up the neg - side??
I'm looking at the link of the wipers that Ben posted and I'm not really sure which set to go with??
part# A-F4W or L-F4w with the A-F4W I was hoping I could hook them up like I side above

Mike,

I really don't see that being an issue, but you never know till you try. If you go with the wheel wiper option, you could use 2 per truck in stack fashion. You would just have to isolate the 2 with either kapton tape or the washers they offer. This would give you the option of pickup from both rails on each truck.

I made my own wipers to do just that. I just like the idea of have power pickup from the front and rear of the car. In my mind it would make it more reliable. Also the addition of a capacitor really makes a difference.

Hope this helps!

eit27 wrote: Mike,

.............. Also the addition of a capacitor really makes a difference.

Just wondering: If you add a capacitor (across the powercables?) would it not destroy the DCC-signal, or will the decoder still work?

The loksound have a dedicated circuit for the capacitor.

eit27 wrote: The loksound have a dedicated circuit for the capacitor.

OK, then I understand. Thank you.

Thanks for the info Ed

Mike,

I just completed my 2nd one now. I find the 1st version picking up both rails per truck more reliable than the other. The other I used the wheel wipers from SBS. Just my 2 cents worth. I will try tweaking the SBS version to see if I can make it more reliable. Stay posted for another review.

Hello,

I've finished a sound installation in a MTL F7-A/B unit some days before.
Both units are fixed with special short couplers and the B has additional power pick up.
Based on a ct SL75 in the B- and a DCX33 function decoder in the A-unit there some more lights effects:



A few days later I finished a box car with a ct GE75.
This car has wheel special whipers and a bigger capacitor for buffering the 2(!) speakers.
Development is finished now and I will build a small quantity for resale...



There are more videos of my work on YouTube.
If you're interested please feel free to contact me directly by email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.


Thanks and all the best,

Oli

Oli, these look great... or I should say they Sound and look great. But how about some photos of the inside and maybe a "how to" explanation for those users that might need help on attempting something like this themselves.

It might also help if you mention the full brands/names of the products used. Saying something is based on a ct SL75 in the B, and a DCX33 function decoder in the A-unit, I doubt, means anything to a newbie fresh on decoders.

[“ct” being CT Electronik, and the SL75 being a loco decoder with sound where only the sound portion is being used in this configuration. The DCX33 used in the A-unit is another loco decoder by CT Electronik but without sound. And maybe the reason one uses a loco w/sound decoder in a B-unit for sound only, and a loco decoder w/o sound in the A-unit to drive a train where one wants sound is that the size of a decoder with sound is too large to fit in a Z scale loco? So two decoders must be used in this Z scale A-B combo unit to accomplish what just one decoder can do in a larger scale.

The use of the Sound Only (no loco functions) CT Electronik GE75 decoder in the boxcar is fine, but then perhaps mentioning that it must be linked to a loco and used as a pair similar to the A-B units mentioned above would be a good idea.

But one must also pay attention to what they might be purchasing. First of all, a lot of the good, and tiny decoders, are not easy to find here in the States. That means they must be ordered from a country where there might be a translation problem on the website… And the CT Electronik GE75 comes in 3 different versions (Steam, Diesel, and Electric locos). Not knowing something like this, and then simply buying it off eBay from some unscrupulous seller that doesn’t list which version it is, can be disastrous for a newbie just starting out in decoders.]

I’m not trying to come down on you at all here Oli, I’m just saying that a website that actually helps a model railroader, as opposed to just stating what is possible in the hobby (or what might be available for purchase), is a place where newbies might flock to for just that - help.

Joe

Joe,

thanks for your ideas!

First of all, my English is only school based. I have little experience in "DCC-English" so please if you will find any mistakes, just keep them...

As you mentiod absolutly correct I have used the decoder from CT Electronics/Vienna/Austria in wich I'am very familiar since I started with DCC in Z-scsale some years before.
The SL75 is a combined sound- and loco-decoder with 4 function outputs, the DCX33 is a 4 function only decoder.
Not the size of the decoder is the problem, the speakers (and buffer capacitors) are!
CT is offering a speaker of 15x11mm wich fits in a B-unit (and box-car).
I'am working on different wooden resonator but this one is originly CT.

If you have any problems to buy them please contact me. Euro is going down since the "Greek Disaster" and will make them affordable to you.
I'am able to update any firmmware to the latest (available) version.

The sound only-box-car is absolutly self powered and buffered with a large capacitor.
Depending on the sound project it can be used to any similar loco you have in stock.
Of course it could be fix-coupled to a loco but it is not necessary.

And yes, it could be programmed with any sound you want!

All you need for this are the original sound-files, a special programmer, the right software and the knowledge of how to (it took less than a week to to learn this, creating the F7 project and the U50 project wich could be found on youtube).
I hope this helps to your question regarding to pay attention of what to buy?

I will take some pictures during the next one I will convert in a few days.

Please feel free to ask any question!

Thanks,

Oli

Thanks Oli… yes, I should have mentioned that some sound decoders, that are not specific to a particular locomotive, are able to be programmed with different sound projects. But the need for the purchase of a special programmer, original sound-files, the right software and a week to learn how to put it all together is probably over most people’s expectations when talking about adding sound to a loco.



PS I’m only adding these little tidbits of information here as a way to help teach others about decoders, from a newbies side of the fence.

Keep up the great work.

Joe

I hate wheel wipers!!!
after two days of work I finished my sound car

Good to hear Mike. What size capacitor did you go with?

Hi Ed I didn't use a capacitor and not sure if I can fit one.
Do you know if the "power pack" from ESU are they the same thing as a capacitor?

Mike,

As far as I'm told, the power pack is a series of capacitors. What I used was a 1000uf 16v. It seems to work pretty well. As for the SD, not sure it would fit. What you may have to do if looking to add a capacitor, take SMD capacitors and make your own power pack.

Installed a sound decoder in my second boxcar this morning. I went with the same Loksound decoder and added the sugar cube from CT to it. Definately a lot more sound. It is also easier to install as it comes with its own enclosure and it is the same width as the inside of the boxcar. Listed below is a link with info on the speaker itself.

store.sbs4dcc.com/CTElectronikSugarCubeSpeaker15x11mm8ohm1wattw/SoundChamber.aspx

And a short video for the amount of sound from the sugar cube speaker.